My kind of style Redleg.
I've found that the writing makes a HUGE difference in terms of how professional the map looks. So, I spent some time studying calligraphy to benefit the maps. Here is an excellent resource on calligraphy, pdf download is free: here. I haven't made pens myself, I bought a set of Speedball brand pens and an inkwell. When I was shopping for those I found a set of nibs labeled as for cartography! So of course I bought them. I only use the dipped pens now because the width of the pen stroke is so much finer. Also I find the process much more enjoyable that way.