Long, long time since I last posted here. I lost the mapping bug for a few years while having to deal with Real Life(tm) stuff, like paid employment ...

Anyways, I've started working on my maps again, and I'm getting to the stage where I need to start adding landscape labels. I've tried labeling mountain chains and rivers using straight labels, and I've also tried follow-the-path labels to contour the words to the feature - but so far I haven't found anything that works well for me.

Has anyone got any suggestions or examples of maps that manage the labeling of geographical features in a way that is both legible and yet at the same time does not overpower the map with too many words?

A jpeg of the map's current state can be found at this link (warning: 4.6Mb)
http://rikweb.org.uk/map/2017-11-05-fullmap.jpg