Thunderspire Labyrinth

[mattbecker08]

Wow dude, that some really nice stuff, im might be in love with you.

[mearrin69]

Ohhh! Ayyy! Send a PM! (edit: to him, not me...lol) Welcome to the Guild...but you're gonna have to post a map to make up for the use of the P word.
M

[NeonKnight]

Ummmm....don't know what to say....Thanks?

[neilselden]

Hi,
Thanks so much for producing these (and other maps). It was simple to make some dungeon tiles using your images.

For the un-crafty among us.... if you crop the images into 7 x 10 square chunks, they will print perfectly on A4 or 8.5x11 sized paper. With some trimming, you will end up with very nice matched pieces of the overall encounter area. Now, cut out backing for the individual pieces (I used poster board), and paste the maps onto the backing. Edge it with some tape and finish it off with transparent contact paper.

Later,
Neil

[Kyrix]

Is there any chance you could do the maps without them being in segments? I'm running the game online, and it's easier to have one solid map than switching between a dozen different little maps

[NeonKnight]

I am sorry, no, I have no way of joining the maps, nor have I mapped the 'between' spaces.

[dragonman]

all i can say is thanks so much for these maps and all the effort you put into them. These have helped me really flesh out my campaign.

[rayoman]

NeonKnight, your maps are fantastic. I am hoping you can give me some CC3/Dungeon Designer pointers. I'm ok creating the maps but I was wondering how you did certain things in your Thunderspire Mountain maps.

1. How did you restrict the grid squares to just your floors?
2. How did you get the wide walls? For example, in your encounter A1 map it appears the silver/grey area is a large wall.

I've had my CC3 for awhile but I am still but a noob when it comes to drawing maps. I thought I was doing good by practicing with maps in my D&D modules but they appear to be crude and unappealing. I know practice makes perfect but easy to follow tips would be fantastic.

*edit* I realise in the first 4 or five maps I had the glow , etc around the perimeter of the maps, but all later maps were done slightly larger to accommodate for overflow.

[NeonKnight]

NeonKnight, your maps are fantastic. I am hoping you can give me some CC3/Dungeon Designer pointers. I'm ok creating the maps but I was wondering how you did certain things in your Thunderspire Mountain maps.

1. How did you restrict the grid squares to just your floors?
2. How did you get the wide walls? For example, in your encounter A1 map it appears the silver/grey area is a large wall.

I've had my CC3 for awhile but I am still but a noob when it comes to drawing maps. I thought I was doing good by practicing with maps in my D&D modules but they appear to be crude and unappealing. I know practice makes perfect but easy to follow tips would be fantastic.

Thanx.

The answers for both 1 and 2 are part of the same.

I took the sheet for the GRID and moved it so it was on the list just below the FLOOR (and thus on top of the floor for the image). With the walls, I ensured they were further down the list than the FLOOR and GRID sheets (So they would be the topmost in the image).

Finally, when I made the maps I made my FLOOR/WALL area slightly large than the finished map would be. Example, if the room was 30 feet wide (6 squares) by 40 feet tall (8 squares), I had a map size 40 feet by 50 feet, or an extra 5 feet around the map area. Thus I was able to trim the image down after the sheet effects were applied and it would not look strange with a Glow or Bevel around the perimeter of the map.

[rayoman]

Thanx.

The answers for both 1 and 2 are part of the same.

I took the sheet for the GRID and moved it so it was on the list just below the FLOOR (and thus on top of the floor for the image). With the walls, I ensured they were further down the list than the FLOOR and GRID sheets (So they would be the topmost in the image).

Finally, when I made the maps I made my FLOOR/WALL area slightly large than the finished map would be. Example, if the room was 30 feet wide (6 squares) by 40 feet tall (8 squares), I had a map size 40 feet by 50 feet, or an extra 5 feet around the map area. Thus I was able to trim the image down after the sheet effects were applied and it would not look strange with a Glow or Bevel around the perimeter of the map.

Thanks for the info, NeonKnight. I've been experimenting trying to see if I can get some of your effects and I hadn't tried moving the sheets yet.

For the silver/grey area, are you just using the background bitmap and applying effects to get that beveled look around your walls or are you actually drawing a wall and then applying effects? I've been experimenting and I haven't duplicated that yet.

Anyway, I appreciate the hints. Like I said, I have no problems drawing the maps but I am just now delving into sheets and effects.