Reply With Quoteits looks cool when u finish a entire area
Now need to get my own Kingdoms flags, thos ones i got searching in google long time ago.
Thank you for the observations Hai, i appreciated it and i want to discuss about:
I will use this map in a game, so i need the grids to help in a fast check of the scales to make easy calculate the distances btw towns and places. I got wut u said, but dunno wut to doThat distortion and the graticules (the grids) look really wonky, Given the symbol style of the map, I think you should ditch the graticule entirely as it doesn't mesh well with that style. If you really want it, then it really does require some knowledge of projections and how maps represent a globe in order to get it to come out right. The details depend on where on the planet the map is, how big it is, and the purpose of the map.
Sinse i am using this grids in the whole map, maybe i can name each grid with numbers to say wut angle the detailed maps are. I made a sheet with standards for every region, some each map will get a inclination next to the real inclination of the globe, like this:
Est_Minas_Hirk_final cópia.jpgDist_Sul_Fag_final cópia.jpg
If u have some examples about grids i will appreciate the ideas.
I liked so much the crumpled papermay i let it with less evidence?
U right about the borders, i just have no idea how to do one, it seems ugly i know and i will try improve it and the legend.If you are just after a pretty picture and don't care about keeping it in character, you still might want to tone the effects down, particularly the relief and textures. They are a bit distractingly over-prominent. That sort of rough stone texture you use for the border is also a bit repetitive. If you want to stick with that look, it might be worth finding a larger texture to hide the repetition more.
The cartouche is a bit hard to read. The purple text doesn't contrast very well with the grey textured background.
If here u are talking about Mountains and trees, i am already working in it. Schwarzkreuz helped me a lots spending time to share his tutorial about the Mountains that i loved. But guess first i will finish the areas before start change, or i will not fell the progress.Finally, it would be a good idea to make a more diverse symbol set to try to disguise the repetition of the symbols. I usually go with 7 to 12 variations on a symbol in my symbol sets
Again, i say thank you for the comments about the map.
its looks cool when u finish a entire area
Now need to get my own Kingdoms flags, thos ones i got searching in google long time ago.
If the map is acting as a game board then my point about removing the grid doesn't really apply. I'd still suggest dropping that odd looking warping effect though as it really doesn't make sense.Originally Posted by aquarits
Thank you for the observations Hai, i appreciated it and i want to discuss about:
I will use this map in a game, so i need the grids to help in a fast check of the scales to make easy calculate the distances btw towns and places. I got wut u said, but dunno wut to do
Sinse i am using this grids in the whole map, maybe i can name each grid with numbers to say wut angle the detailed maps are. I made a sheet with standards for every region, some each map will get a inclination next to the real inclination of the globe, like this:
Well, the "grids" on real maps are a way of representing a coordinate system and are called "graticules". Most commonly the coordinate system is latitude and longitude, but sometimes another one like UTM is used. Modern street maps use a locator grid, often with alphanumeric coordinates but that's a fairly specific thing.
If you're using it for a game, then I'd think the mechanics of the game would dictate the grid used. If you want a real life lat-lon graticule, then it actually depends on where the map is, and what it's for. For a reasonable lat-lon graticule for a small area, you can use this tutorial to come up with something reasonable.
They are your maps so you can do as you wish. I was just giving my opinion. I think outright crumpling looks off as a hand drawn map is something that is fairly valuable and is going to be taken care of. Texture from the paper (or whatever it's drawn on) is a fine idea, but you might want to think about what that texture implies about the map and pick the right one. Again it's your map so if you like the crumpled look anyway, go with it.I liked so much the crumpled paper
Well, think about how the rest of the map was drawn, and how that might be applied to drawing a border. A simple line or double line works just fine, or you can apply a simple drawn pattern between two lines. Checked borders are common and usually act as a supplement to the graticule (which means they need to line up) You can also make them strictly decorative, but it doesn't look very good in combination with a grid unless they are aligned.
Here's one of my maps that has a checked border aligned with a graticule to demonstrate:
map.jpeg
ty Hai i appreciate everything, i liked your tutorial and know exactly what i need to do. But guess now i need finish this thang before, i really want to see how it will be done. I included your observations in my "New Tasks" to be my next step to improve the map.
About the borders i want something more likely a photo frame, that is why i don't want use only thos borders. Guess i will use both, like a map in the frame or i will only let it like a picture... still thinking
aquarits --
I like the look you have going! Another detail that could seriously improve the believability though is closer attention to river behavior. Take a look at Redrobes' excellent tutorial on Getting Your Rivers In The Right Place - it's stickied close to the top of the Tutorial/ How-to forum. The one flaw I see in your hydrology is that rivers should only join as they flow downhill, not split. Sure, there are river deltas and minor midstream islands, but in general, there's not going to be any major division of flow ,like you show in several places. Think of lakes as just a wide place in a river - you'll never get two outflows. Multiple inflowing rivers; sure, but if there ever were two points on a lakeshore that were equally the lowest, one would pretty quickly erode faster and become the only lowest point, and the other potential outlet would be dry. Maybe in times of extreme flood you would get a second point overflowing, but within hours or days that situation would go back to normal.
You wouldn't have to tweak much to get your rulebreaking rivers to behave - see my crude markup:
SplitRiverFix.jpg
The red would be the least likely place for a river to flow (though you could break it in other places about as well), and the green bits show plausible upper ends for both the lakeward and seaward flows. In essence, you're reversing your depicted flow for the "second outlet" of that lake, making it a believable second inlet. The purple route could be a canal if your technology level would permit it, or would be a portage route for people and goods that otherwise travelled along the (now two separate) rivers.
Another way to state the water-flows-downhill rule is that a river can't flow from one point on an ocean to another. You don't have any such 'bridge routes' but some people draw them in without thinking. All kinds of explorers of the American West hunted for a water route past the continental divide, which they probably should have known better than - you won't see a lake on a ridgetop that drains both ways. Okay, there's a few such *very rare* situations, mostly marshy areas instead of outright lakes, but they're at such a tiny-tributary level of stream flow that it's useless to think of them as navigable routes.
Again, I love the overall map - it looks great. Like Hai-Etlik says, if it's distinctly a game map, then you could just skip trying to make your grid work as a graticule (related to latitude-longitude lines) and let it be a simple locator grid specific to each view. Leaving it rectangular instead of hexes does keep your map looking a bit more in-character and less like a game board. Calling it units of days of travel makes it obviously approximate (once the user thinks about walking vs. horseback vs. shipborne travel) and avoids the complication that distortion makes a distance key a lie over a broad-area map.
Right JB, I am just passing here to put the other continent, is like the first of the year!
I am checking Redrobes tuto right now and analyzing exactly wut u said and will come here to say after this
ty for spend ur time analyzing my map, i am really grateful for it!
All other detailed areas are in my album.
Happy new year for all!
WOW JB, I just got one thing after your post: FUN!!!!
Yes, got a terrific night checking my map, was very cool, have a lots of things to fix. Unfortunately guess i cant do it now, i really want to finish the first idea of the map and thn start to fix.
I got some topography magazines to help me learn more, read some and made a basic sketch following the tuto that u recommended.http://www.cartographersguild.com/tu...ght-place.html
and that is wut i got:
epic_1_copress.jpg
thank you very much i will include it in my next tasks to finish my map. All this experience made me remember wut Korash said in my "Welcome Post"
Don't forget that every one here, regardless of current ability and skills, started at the very beginning of the Mapping Journey. Make no mistake....it IS a journey, but it is one well worth it and best done with eyes open in wonder at all the places you end up going.
Right, doing all things in same timeimpossible get bored!
JB and Hai need that you 2 check if gratitudes are right. I made a second grid with scales of 25 mm so i can keep controlling the size of my planet, i still need to work in 2 poles. Follow the pictures for checking, i i go back to details
Last edited by aquarits; 01-01-2013 at 01:40 PM.
I got ready the 3 continents, now i am going to the poles.
So fun!
wow.... do you have any freetime next to mapping ;D `?
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