Conversion to Digital Format

[MrJokee]

Hi guys, it's been a while since I posted on the CG forums. Been working on a bunch of stuff, including maps, but here is my problem that I seek help with. I have a map that I've worked on for several years (it's not that amazing, I worked on it sparingly) and its made in hand, on large sheet of construction paper, about 4.5"x6". It's a map of the world, a template that I need to covert into digital format for use in PDF so I can apply various overlays. Originally when I started, I thought I would create overlays using some form of clear foil that would attach to the paper and formed a sort of massive flip book, but that option is expensive and a bit...derpy. Anyway. I was wondering if anyone knew of any way to convert the map into a digital format for use in Photoshop.

I considered taking a high res photo but the lighting causes problems. I suppose I could either try to take a photo again, and then use various filters to try get rid of the lighting, or I could see if anyone around is a photographer and has some strobes I could use to light it up white, but I figured I'd ask here, see if anyone has any ideas on how to convert it.

Thanks in advance.

[Nightshade]

The only reliable way I can think of would be to use a scanner to scan it into a digital format on the computer, but sounds like you don't have something like that. If you only have the option of taking a picture I would say tape it to a white wall, (tape folded on the back) and angle a lamp with a bright florescent bulb towards it, compact florescent bulbs don't tend to leave the same sorts of "shadows" a regular bulb does. Doing it on the wall would help from creating shadows and difficult angles from taking an overhead picture. I would recommend looking into a document scanner from some place like wal-mart or best buy though, as that would give you the best quality, and the most fine detail as well as likely being higher resolution.

[Midgardsormr]

Call around to the print shops and office supply stores in your area and see if someone has a scanner that can handle it. I'm assuming that was meant to be 4.5' (feet) wide, not 4.5" (inches). I have never encountered a scanner that can handle a document that wide, but there might be a 60-inch model out there.

Failing that, Nightshade's advice is pretty sound. The key is to get even, soft lighting across the entire map. I don't think there will be any difference in the shadows between an incandescent and a compact fluorescent bulb, though. Shadow quality is a function of the size of the light source and the distance between the shadow caster and the shadow catcher. The difference in bulbs will be largely one of color temperature, with incandescents producing a more yellow light, and the CFL producing a blue-green. Also be aware that fluorescents usually have some "holes" in their light spectrum, meaning that certain colors may not appear as expected under that light.

Anyway, anything you can do to soften the light is an advantage in reducing both shadows and hotspots. Hanging a very thin bedsheet or curtain in front of the lights is probably sufficient, although it might mean adding more lights to get the same level of illumination. Just don't hang the linens too close to an incandescent light—risk of fire.

A tripod for the camera is a must. That will allow you to take a longer exposure without risk of blur. And use the timer feature on the camera to avoid shaking the camera when pressing the button.

[Gamerprinter]

Well I'd run it through a large format roll-fed scanner (like the one I got) which can handle full color, 300 dpi, 36 inches wide by any reasonable length (I've scanned up to 96 inch long originals). You need to find copy center or print shop that has large format scanning capability - though it might cost you in $30 range or more for large format.

Me, when I do hand-drawn maps, I draw in scales from 18 x 24 inches, up to 36 x 48 inches as linework only which I scan to import into my graphics program to finish. I do all my color work, shading, special effects, borders and labeling digitally, and never by hand.

Honestly, unless your object is fairly small and you have excellent studio lighting, taking a photograph is probably the worst solution - scanning is the smarter and better way to do it.

Now I'm sure you won't like this idea, but I have scanned larger than 36 inch wide documents, but I was forced to fold it, and insuring when I scan the other side, that there was a slight overlap to more easily join the two scanned halves, but that's the only real solution I can think of.

[johnvanvliet]

Honestly, unless your object is fairly small and you have excellent studio lighting, taking a photograph is probably the worst solution - scanning is the smarter and better way to do it.

true

now it "can" be done BUT ,not easily .


i worked in photo labs and studios for years and years
For me it is not much of a problem but i know the problems to work out

and the custom software needed to convert the close ups into one big mosaic and not have many lighting issues
( the software used with the graphics cameras to get SUB millimeter resolution spectrograph data sets of paintings in Museums )

But for the " Average person" ??? not so easy



there should be a graphics lab still someplace near you ( look in the phonebook or on line)

or any good custom printing shop should be able to scan it or point you to one that can