Reply With Quote*looks around for a bandaid before bleeding out...*
No no. Red food dye! I'm ok
Haha, you're not kidding, you really put that through the ringer. Just please tell me the red isn't your blood
*looks around for a bandaid before bleeding out...*
No no. Red food dye! I'm ok
My finished maps
"...sometimes the most efficient way to make something look drawn by hand is to simply draw it by hand..."
I, on the other hand, am more committed. Two drops of blood committed, in fact.
The first one has a couple of smears and a drop that were allowed to dry to the touch and then scanned.
The second one was heated until the blood darkened to roughly what it would look like after a few days.
The last one was heated until the paper discolored (the lighter bands are the supporting wires of the oven whose broiler did the heating).
Blood has a weird opaque quality that doesn't look or act at all like blood substitutes in the movies or stage. It has odd aging properties as well. Note that the blood smears are transparent and the blood drops are opaque. Next time I check my blood sugar I'll do this over some writing. Ideally I'd try it over some traditional iron gall ink, but then I'd have to make some.
Thanks for the old papers. It's much quicker to steel someones job than do it your self ;-)
They look really great and I will have much use for them.
Here is an example of my map after aplying your old paper 1.
Waldronate: Aaah, you've found one of the very few advantages to needing to check blood sugar on a regular (or semi regular in any case) basis
Clercon: I'm just glad i can give back something to the community that's given me so muchI like it, that's a nifty effect you've made out of it
My finished maps
"...sometimes the most efficient way to make something look drawn by hand is to simply draw it by hand..."
@Waldronate: now that is dedication. Thanks, those are pretty non-intuitive results.
One thing that you notice immediately in older documents is that organic stuff all goes to shades of brown. The paper goes from off-white to brown, the ink goes from black to brown, the blood stains go from red to brown. The only colors that maintain their integrity much at all are mineral colors or metallic leaf elements. Even with mineral colors like yellows, reds, greens, and blues there was usually an organic binder that muddies them a little over time. The older ink formulations like black gall ink are corrosive to papre over time, giving rise to effects around the ink that vary with age.
Old papers are a bit different than mondern ones. The old papers were mostly rag papers, meaning that they were mostly cellulose. Modern papers are wood pulp, which has roughly 1/4 lignin. Lignin doesn't hold up to long storage as well as cellulose and degrades more rapidly. Modern papers were also often bleached with chlorine, which forms hydrochloric acid over time in the paper, which causes a catalytic degradation in the paper. That's why newspapers get rapidly browner and more fragile than fancier paper. And then there's the clay-coated slick paper from magazines. It's hardly paper at all except in the sense that printing is done on it.
I hate it when I can't stop talking like this. Lots of good information on paper aging and how old document differ from new ones is out there on the internet.
My great-grandfather had a collection of cheap pulp novels from the 1940's that are out in the garage. I'll try to find some and see if I can get some scans of not too old paper for comparison.
Maybe I'll try some other staining materials so that I can say that I've put blood, sweat, and tears into the site.
As promised, here's a few more of the textures, including some that look like they will be useful for bump or displacement mapping with little adjustment needed.
Most of these are from the first set of paper textures, this time after drying. It really brought ot the crinkles on a few cases. Originally I was hoping the tea staining would enhance the crinkles (like the edges and some of the folds), I hadn't been counting on the fact that soaking it in water softened the sharp edges so much.
Anyhow, I'll do them in two sets, I have 7 more to share.
First, the dried versions of the previous (if you match them up they could do good displacement maps for the previous wet ones). Number 8 had an issue, I accidentally scanned it at the default of 150, and didn't notice until after i'd re-soaked the paper, so unfortuantely, there's no going back to redo that one.
My finished maps
"...sometimes the most efficient way to make something look drawn by hand is to simply draw it by hand..."
lol @ waldronate..
Actually if you go do a good workout and use a piece of paper to wipe your forhead ever few mins...
Hrm. i think i'm putting too much thought into this now!
Anyhow, here's the last 2, I think I'm done making paper textures for now, i'm happy with my collection. I think I can title this portion the Extreme Collection
This is the backside of my map after drying out, plus I took one of the other pieces and set it to the match - some of the edges didn't go out as fast as I meant them to
My finished maps
"...sometimes the most efficient way to make something look drawn by hand is to simply draw it by hand..."
Great stuff, CM, thanks a lot for all this work. I'm sure these will come in very handy for a lot of people.
If you really wanted to add a few more nice ones into the mix (go on, you know you want to) how about scanning a few folded but un-aged papers, purely for overlaying some nice folds onto maps that don't necessarily want all the aging. I'd love to try this myself but my scanner is about ten years old, up in my daughter's bedroom and lacking a power adaptor.
A nice little set of folds like that would surely make me very happy. Hehe.
Royal: I'm very sorry for your loss, your mother was a terribly attractive woman.
My Cartographer's Guild maps: Finished Maps
More maps viewable at my DeviantArt page: Ramah-Palmer DeviantArt
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